The last steps was to get a roof on the shelter and som nice benches inside.
The logs and boards are sanded with a grinder and sanding disc. Then it is oiled with timber oil. This i a mix of tar, linseed oil and turpentine. The timber oil is permeable. So the timber will continue to breathe and dry out moisture from the log as well as keeping the rain out. The logs don’t have to be dry to apply the timber oil.
To cut the boards I use my improvised Alaskan chain saw mill.
Ok! So the underlying logs are ready. The overlying log is a bit more challenging if you ask me. But it is absolutley doable and gets easier log by log.
This video will give you an impression how to go about it.
Here is a list on how to form the overlying log:
Put the log on the underlying logs and make sure the center of this log is over the center of the saddle.
Put a mark in the center on the logs end. Draw a leveled line from top to bottom through the center mark.
Measure the gap between the logs so you know how far down it must go. If this is 4 inches, then make a mark 4 inches up from the underlying log. This is where the cut for the bottom side saddle will end.
Make a line around the overlying log over the center from the underlying log. Don’t move the log. You dont have to mark the bottom side where you can’t reach it.
When marks are made on each side of both ends on the log, turn it around.
Mark the line around the bottom where it couldn’t be marked before.
Look at the leveled line on the end of the log and make a center mark for where the bottom crosses the line around the log.
Put marks out to the side along the line. E.g. 1.5 inch out to each side.
Make a cut from this mark and to the mark made in point 3.
Put marks out to the side and cut from there to the center cut.
Sand the surface using an angle grinder with a sand paper disk.
Put the log back in center over the saddle on the underlying log.
Make sure the log is level.
Use a scriber and adjust it to be a bit narrower than the gap between the logs.
Transfer this using the scriber and mark the overlying log. Keep the scriber level. Since this is a bit narrower there is some margin for mistakes.
Cut out whats inside the line.
Put the log back on.
Make marks using a pencil where there needs to be cut away more.
When the log is all the way down it will suddenly rest not in the notch, but somewhere else along the log. Now it’s time to cut out longwise the log to make it come down around the top of the next log.
Use a pencil to mark where the log touches and cut out using the chainsaw tip.
If your’e not extremely good at this, you will probably do this repeatedly on each log as it comes further and further down.
In the end the log will rest nicely in the saddles and on top along the log underneath. When the next log comes in place on top it will be nearly immovable. 😉
When log cabins are built, the bottom logs are spilt in half so that they will rest as far down as the logs that come on top of them. I didn’t´t do that here because of the not so level ground I´m building on.
The underlying log needs to be prepared for the overlying log to form a good notch. This clip shows how.
Here is a list for how to prepare the underlying log
Draw a line around the log where the center of the overlying log will be.
Put a mark on top center of the underlying log so that this mark crosses the line.
Put a mark out to each side of the center along the line around the log. This may vary depending on the log size, but I but it 1.5 inch out to each side.
If you have split you bottom log, you will next make a cut from the mark you just made to the edge where the log is split. This is how far down the next log will go.
If you have a whole log as the bottom log, you might want to let the next log go further down than the middle. But you then have to have a big enough log so that the 3rd log on top will have something to wrap around. 🙂 This is a bit advanced in my head, but it makes sense when done step by step outside.
If this is not the bottom log, you make the cut from the mark and to this log meets the next log.
Put marks out to the side from the cut you just made. From these marks you will make a cut in to the other cut. This flat surface will be where the next log rests upon. This surface should be wider than the logs used, and the same width all over so that it looks nice.
Sand the surface using an angle grinder with a sand paper disc so that it is nice and flat.
That´s it for the underlying log. You have now made what is called a saddle.
I have been dreaming about making a log type lean-to shelter in our back yard. This fall I got to it. I got some timber last winter and some this summer. Now it was time for the constructing.
I like the round timber style and the natural looks of it.
The logs are debarked. They then dry faster. Ideally they will be rather dry before sanded and used in the construction. My construction is outside and will continue to dry and breathe also after it has been oiled with timber oil. Some of my logs where dry, some not so dry.
Introduction This chainsaw mill is simply based on a metal table leg with screw tread in one end. Something I stumbled upon while thinking about making a chainsaw mill. Follow the instructions and you too will soon
be milling your own boards.
Step 1: Get Parts
Table leg with screw tread.
Bolt for the leg, a big washer and a locking washer.
A solid angle that will not easily bend.
Two exhaust clamps that fit the leg and angle well.
Screws or bolts for attaching the board. If you choose bolts, furniture nuts is a goo idea.
A suitable board.
Step 2: Drilling through the bar
Measure up where the hole should be. Make sure there is enough room for the exhaust clamps to slide down between the leg and the saw. You might also want to remove the bumper spikes. This makes the chainsaw easier to slide along the log, and the opportunity for a wider cut.
Drill on trough. It is metal all the way. Make sure the borer doesn’t overheat.
Step 3: Mounting
Attach the angle to the leg.
Attach the board to the angle.
Attach the leg to the bar.
Tighten it all up so it doesn’t rotate or move out of position in any way.
If the board is narrow, you can widen it by attaching some smaller board pieces. Then it will be easier to control and get a straight cut.
Step 4: Milling Information
A big chainsaw is recommended for milling. 80cc engine or bigger. I guess smaller saws will manage if not ran to hard. Mine is 55cc.
A ripping chain is recommended. It’s sharpened in 10 degree angle. The result is finer grained saw dust. An ordinary chain will produce longer saw dust and it might fill up around the chain in the saw.
The first cut needs to be done with a board attached on top of the log to get a straight cut.
Pay attention that the milling board touches on all sides. If it gaps you are not getting a straight cut.
Step 5: Safety Safety is always important working with a chainsaw. This construction is not safe in it self. But here is what I think helps:
The construction needs to be firmly attached to the bar and the angle to the leg so that it will not rotate.
Use chainsaw boots, pants and helmet.
Stand on the side of the chainsaw where it’s low risk for it to jump out on you while you are milling. If you are pulling the chainsaw against yourself, then you are in my opinion on the good side.
Make the cut using the bottom of the chainsaw bar so that the chainsaw pulls it self into the log.
Be safe.
Happy milling!